Photography: Bernhard Schmitz
Bicheno ticks all the boxes one expects from a town on the picturesque East Coast of Tasmania – glowing orange rocks dotting snow-white beaches; turquoise waters washing a scenic harbour; and the fresh, clean scent of the Tasman Sea. Yet, you soon realise that the true appeal of this coastal village goes far beyond anticipation. You feel that special vibe before you can put it into words, but locals have long known exactly what this place does to your soul.
Eliza Di Francesco from luxury accommodation and events venue Harveys Farm frames it beautifully: “This place actually forces you to slow down.” She and her husband, Rob, left behind a busy existence on the Northern Beaches of Sydney for a more laid-back and meaningful life. “One way to describe the country-coastal lifestyle is just wholesome,” says Rob. “Just yesterday we were having lunch together and our chickens were walking in the background. As an original city slicker, I could never have pictured sitting there having lunch with chickens running around.”
A close collaborator and friend of the Di Francescos is local chef Chris Lucas. After 17 years in professional kitchens, Chris founded his culinary venture, What Grows, with a radical commitment to true seasonal cooking. His shared table gatherings are dictated entirely by what has just been harvested nearby or caught by local fishermen that morning. “It’s different every time,” Chris explains. “Particularly with Tasmania’s rough weather, the fish catch changes constantly. The philosophy is to only use small, family-run Tasmanian businesses. Why use anything else when it grows in your own backyard?”
Jump to: What to see and do in Bicheno
Jump to: Where to eat and drink in Bicheno
Jump to: Where to stay in Bicheno
It’s all about the fresh catch at Bicheno’s small fishing port called The Gulch, which is a view to behold in its beautiful setting behind the rocky outcrops of Governor Island. The port is also home to Le Gulch Wine Bar, Waubs Harbour whisky distillery and the Lobster Shack, which has gained a reputation far beyond town for its famous lobster rolls.
Husband-and-wife team Marcus and Sara Walkem have transformed a commercial lobster export factory into a local waterfront haven where they use 100 per cent of their catch on site. “Originally, we sent all the lobsters from Bicheno to mainland Australia and to China,” Marcus explains. “But about eight years ago, we opened up a little fresh-fish hatch out the front because, back then, it was very hard to buy lobsters in Tasmania – everything was exported.”
Today, Marcus still fishes, catching roughly a quarter of the restaurant’s needs while relying on small, multigenerational operators to supply the rest. For Sara, the setting provides a rare chance to showcase the island’s best. “There are actually very few places where you can eat fresh seafood directly overlooking the ocean,” she says. “We look out across a pristine marine reserve, and it’s not uncommon to see dolphins, seals or whales breaching right through the Gulch as they travel along the coast.”
The pristine waters around Bicheno are also the lifeblood for the town’s most celebrated residents: the little blue penguins. Just up the road, Nic Wardlaw of Bicheno Penguin Tours protects a thriving sanctuary that has been decades in the making. “It took 20 years for this area to come back into a native bushland environment – it used to just be bare sheep farmland,” Nic reflects, noting that local school groups now help build and number the timber nesting boxes that dot the sanctuary. Having grown up on these very shores, he has witnessed the village’s evolution firsthand.
“It was a quiet fishing village that was always left off the map,” he recalls. “Nobody talked about penguins – I had no idea they were living here because they only come out of the water for such a short period of time.” Decades later, the quiet magic of watching the tiny creatures emerge from the sea in the evening light remains a spectacle he never tires of.
Bicheno offers an abundance of attractions, proving the town is far more than a gateway. From the dramatic spray of the iconic coastal blowhole to the glass-bottom boat cruising the marine reserve, or a trip to spot Tasmanian devils at East Coast Natureworld, the list goes on. “We’ve got so much to offer here,” says local tourism champion Karen Phillips, who runs award-winning Apartments on Fraser. “It’s a very good reason to stay at least a couple of nights to enjoy everything.”
It’s the combination of natural wonders and small-town warmth that makes Bicheno unforgettable. “You can’t just go to the supermarket and grab milk in five minutes,” says Karen, laughing. “You’ll always run into someone, start a conversation, share stories. It’s just so good to have that.”
What to see and do in Bicheno
Go on a Bicheno Penguin Tour
Don’t miss one of the evening guided walks that grant low-impact visual access to the little blue penguins as they return to their coastal rookeries.
bichenopenguintours.com.au
Visit Bicheno Blowhole and Rocking Rock
Marvel at this natural granite sea cave complex where swells channel spectacular water plumes into the air, alongside unique geological formations.
Take a tour of East Coast Natureworld
This sprawling 60-hectare wildlife sanctuary is dedicated to the rescue, rehabilitation and viewing of native Tasmanian fauna.
natureworld.com.au
Visit Whalers Lookout Scenic Reserve
Venture along this elevated coastal bushwalking track, which leads to observation platforms with panoramic views across the township and The Gulch.
Where to eat and drink in Bicheno
Lobster Shack Tasmania
This waterfront eatery directly on the harbour serves up fresh seafood and signature lobster rolls.
40 Waubs Esp, (03) 6375 1588; lobstershacktasmania.com.au
The Farm Shed East Coast Wine Centre
Visit this dedicated regional tasting room and retail space showcasing the superb boutique wines, craft beers and spirits of the East Coast.
53A Burgess St, (03) 6375 1868; thefarmshedtas.com.au
Le Gulch Wine Bar
You’ll find this relaxed wine bar inside a converted fishing factory. Stop by for rare and premium Tasmanian back-vintages, local oysters, delicious cheeses and charcuterie.
54 Waubs Esp; legulch.com
Le Coq Bicheno
Book a table at this popular French restaurant and indulge in French cuisines crafted with vibrant, locally grown seasonal produce.
57A Burgess St, 0474 487 847; lecoqbicheno.com
Peggy’s
Cafe Peggy’s serves more than just coffee and cake, with a selection of books and artworks by Tassie residents for sale.
1/79 Burgess St, Bicheno; @peggys_bicheno
Where to stay in Bicheno
Harvey’s Farm
Need accommodation for a family getaway or group holiday? Look no further than this private oceanfront estate and luxury accommodation house tailored to slow living and milestone gatherings.
205 Harveys Farm Rd
The Esplanade
This newly launched coastal accommodation, managed by the owners of Harveys Farm, is located on the waterfront near the Bicheno Blowhole.
The Esplanade; enquiries via harveysfarmbicheno.com.au
Apartments on Fraser Bicheno
Enjoy a comfortable getaway in one of these modern, self-contained apartments, designed and built by local owners for unhurried stays.
23 Fraser St, 0400 367 665; apartmentsonfraserbicheno.com.au
Bicheno Gaol House Cottages
These charming heritage cottages are set in private gardens. Choose from the town’s original 1861 Gaol House, 1935 School House or the rustic Stables.
Cnr Burgess & James Sts, (03) 6375 1247; gaolhousecottages.com
